I continue to personally debate the use of metal versus wood studs when finishing a basement. I've read the comments here, and I understand the pros and cons of each product. However, I have only used wooden studs in my projects. I am strongly considering metal for my next remodel. My main concern is strength. I guess I could use metal for perimeter walls where I don't plan a door- and wood studs where a door is necessary. Just trying to understand all the differences before I make my decision.
I didn't have an issue with hanging doors on the metal studs, but then I only used the cheapest hollow core doors. The main concern with the strength of metal studs is when it comes to hanging heavy objects, such as mirrors, cabinets or flat panel televisions.
Metal is fine for simple partition walls, but for what it's worth, it is very unlikely that I will use metal framing again even though it worked quite well in my first basement project. Like I say on the website, it's just a matter of personal preference.
You guys must be getting some bad material. I have a completely metal stud home. I' been in it for over 20 years. My cabinets hang from it and two very expensive plasma TVs. The home is insulated from both the outside and inside. If I was in a hurricane I'd rather be in this than a wood frame. Try ripping a metal stud apart at a joint compared to a wood piece. No comparison. Plus you better tell all the construction people in the west where metal is becoming the material of use.JMO
Just to clarify, on this site I refer to the light gauge metal framing that can be found at places like Home Depot, Lowes and Rona. This type of framing is intended only for non-load bearing walls. There are heavier gauges that are used for structural applications, and we see them used all the time around here in commercial and industrial construction.
As for hanging cabinets or other heavy objects, there is something about a 2 and a half inch screw biting into a wood stud that instills more confidence than a screw grabbing onto 1/4 inch of steel.
Doing a Google search on the subject turned up mixed opinions. Bottom line is that people have successfully hung heavy objects from metal studs (yes, the light gauge stuff) without experiencing any problems so it can be done. So, once again, it all comes down to personal preference.
I have a quick question that I was hoping someone might help with. I live in a condo in Seattle and am attempting to install a pot rack in my kitchen. I'm running into trouble because, even with the use of a stud finder, I can't seem to locate a stud! But I just had a revelation...I think there are metal studs for our ceilings. Does anyone know if that's possible? If so, do you think it could handle a pot rack? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!
I did the same thing you have probably already done-- I did a few searches to try to find some answers to your questions. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find much out.
* Not knowing the construction of your condo, I can only say that metal ceiling channels do exist so they may have been used in your case. * Higher quality stud finders have the capability for deeper scans, and can detect metal and even electrical current.
* I tried a couple of search engines to search specifically for "hanging pot rack from metal studs" and came across a couple forum posts very similar to yours. The common answer was to use toggle bolts that can support 50 pounds each. There was no mention about screwing directly into the metal studs. However, consider how much a fully loaded pot rack will weigh and how much stress it will be subjected to when you either hang a pot up or take one down.
I am about to begin framing my basement using metal framing. My question is how do you/can you attach metal tracks to the underside of a metal I beam? I have 2 I beams supporting my main floor and one is in the perfect location for a partition wall in the basement.
Both of my houses had wood beams, so this was never an issue.... I did some searching on the net, as you have probably done, and haven't found any specific information about attaching the track directly to the I-beam.
Why not just build the wall to the side of the I-beam and hide the beam in a bulkhead on the other side?
I am in the process of framing my basement with steel studs and have the following question: What is the easiest and most cost efficient method of framing around steel beams, ducts etc. with metal studs? By the way, Greg I believe the only way you can fasten metal studs to the metal beam is by using a "ram set" that will allow you to attach the metal tracks on to steel and even concrete for the bottom tracks. The ram set uses capsules of different strengths and special nails of different lengths to get this done.
As you can see from my website, I used wood for framing around ducts. However, you can find the information you need on the Bailey website (they are manufacturers of steel studs).
Click on FAQ and then click on "DIY Basement in Steel" in the drop down. This links to a 1.1 MB PFD file that covers just about every aspect of framing a basement.
Thanks George for your comments on fastening the metal tracks to the metal I beam. To clarify, by "ram set" you are referring to the gun that utilizes 22 guage cartridges to shoot nails into the floor/walls/etc. If so, my concern is the hardness of the metal beam. Would the nail penetrate or "bounce" off? Is there a potential safety concern?
How do I frame a new door into an existing metal stud and sheet rock wall ? I intend to build the jamb myself. A friend wants me to put this door into an existing 2 and a half inch wall. I was thinking of using the bottom plate as a header. Nobody around here seems to stock 2 and a half inch track or studs and then maybe rip a two by four and slip it in between the sheet rock on the latch side and use an existing stud on the hinge side . . . screwing my jamb to it or to a ripped 2X4 that I attach to the stud . . . ANY IDEAS
With my limited experience, I am wondering if 2 and a half inches, whether wood or metal, would provide enough strength to support a standard size door.
Regarding your idea of slipping a ripped 2x4 between the sheetrock, it would have to be fastened to another stud and the top and bottom tracks for stability.
What is this doorway going to be used for? Another possibility is to do a standard wood frame around the door (top and bottom plates with king and jack studs on the sides). This would be the same width as the existing wall, which would be 3 and a half inches with the sheetrock. You wouldn't be able to use standard casings alone , but with a little creativity, you could end up with something that looks half decent. At least the door structure would be stronger, and you could use a prehung door which can save time and aggravation.
